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Poker Table Photos - Anniversary
This table was a joint gift I made for our 6th wedding anniversary - I worked on it every weekend for months, and finished with about a month to go. Before this, I hadn't done any wood projects in around 20 years. It turned out beautifully. The vinyl, suited speed cloth, brass cupholders, and all foam were in a kit from BYOPT. I'm very happy we got the better vinyl and cupholders - they are beautiful together, they really improve the overall quality of the finished table. The pedestals, legs, and stretcher are from www.fcipoker.com and finished in mission oak polyurethane stain. The racetrack is birch face 3/4" hardwood plywood from HD, finished with Watco golden oak danish oil, and then lacquered after the danish oil dried for a week. I bought a can of liquid lacquer and one of thinner, because using spray lacquer would have been too expensive. (Apply lacquer ONLY in a really well ventilated area, i.e., outside!) My only complaint is I can see my brush strokes in the lacquer. I bevel cut the base from the rail at a 45 degree angle so there wouldn't be a shear stress where they stack, and also bevel cut the upper inner and outer corners of the rail so there won't be anything cutting into our elbows as we lean on it. Very pleased with these decisions. The base and racetrack are glued together, and the rail and lip are glued together. The playing surface is screwed to base, and the rail is screwed to the racetrack. We can remove them and reupholster if we want someday. The hardest part isn't visible - it was designing, routing, and building the box structure that supports between the pedestal tops and the table base. If I had to build another, I'd lean strongly towards a low effort choice such as folding metal legs or simple 4"x4" post legs. By my wife really wanted the pedestals and claw foot legs, so... We are extremely pleased with our poker table.

drawing the outer arcs on plywood
rail and base
rail - bevel cut 45 degrees from base
lip for under rail
gluing base to racetrack - screwed for pressure only
racetrack golden oak danish oil
birch racetrack - nice figure
lip glued to rail - screwed for pressure only
base - bevel cut 45 degrees from rail
rail and foam
rail and foam 3
rail and foam 2
vinyl rail - 1
vinyl rail - 2
vinyl rail  3
vinyl rail 5
vinyl rail 4
playing surface - bottom
playing surface
pedestals
claw foot legs
stretcher
routing - first cut
box - routed fit glued and clamped
pre-glue test fit
pre-glue test fit 2
support box pre-glue test fit
support box pieces
finished - 2
finished - 1
 Comments

Comments  

 
#3 Amazing!Simon Kardynal 2015-03-06 17:45
Hi, your table looks incredible. I am really impressed with the decision to bevel the edges. They say flattery is the highest form of compliment. You will be very pleased as I intend to use the same colours of fabric, edging, and cup layout as your table. Thank you for the photos.
 
 
#2 other details...Donald DiPaula 2013-10-22 13:44
The table base attaches to the box with a dozen little 'L' corner brackets on the inner sides and ends.

The drill attachment hole cutter for the cup holders barely made it through 10 uses - it started to separate, and will not be used again.

The cup holders were arranged to have players sit centered on the long sides for heads up play, and to shorten the end-to-end space we needed for seating. They are spaced 24" apart on the long sides, and on the long axis and 60 degrees off the long axis at either end.

We used a premium kit with blackberry suited speed cloth and crimson rogue vinyl, upgraded to the 70 lb. rail foam and 1/4" closed cell volara. These upgrades were a very small part of the project's cost, well worth the money and highly recommended. The crimson rogue vinyl in particular is gorgeous.
 
 
#1 other details...Donald DiPaula 2013-10-22 13:43
The pedestals are 10" 8-sided "economy" style, but they're solid oak and more than strong enough, especially using two, with six oak legs instead of four.

The support box has 1"x12"x24" main supports of solid poplar, bolted to the tops of the pedestals, with 1"x3"x24" red oak cross supports glued in a 1/4" routed slot, then the outer box is all 1"x4" red oak, 72" long, 24" wide. The long box sides have eccentric 'T' slots routed 1/4" on their inner sides for the main and cross supports, so that the tops of the 1"x3" cross supports are flush with the top of the 1"x4" box. The support box is glued at every joint and is both very strong and very rigid (in combination with the stretcher, which is also oak).
 

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